What does the number after the name mean in peptide cosmetics

If you look closely at cosmetic ingredient lists, you'll often see ingredients with numbers attached after their names, like 'sh-Oligopeptide-1' or 'rh-Polypeptide-1.' Many people wonder, looking at these numbers, 'Does a higher number mean a stronger version?' or 'Is number 1 the most basic type?' But to give the conclusion first, this number does not indicate the grade or concentration of the ingredient.

In the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI), when a new raw material is registered, numbers are assigned sequentially so as not to overlap with already registered names and structures. In other words, the number is closer to an identification number indicating 'which registration order the material was,' and does not signify the strength or ranking of the effect.

What are peptides, and why are there so many types?

Peptides are a general term for substances in which amino acids are linked together in a short chain. Depending on how many amino acids are linked and in what order, completely different peptide structures are created, and each of these individual structures is registered under a different name and number. That's why there exist hundreds of different names within the broad category of 'peptides.'

Peptides used in cosmetics are each designed to play a different role in the skin. Some are made with elasticity care in mind, while others are designed for the purpose of texture refinement or condition care. So rather than concluding 'this peptide is better' just by looking at the name and number, it is actually more meaningful to also examine what purpose it was formulated for.

Oligopeptide vs. polypeptide, where does the difference in name come from?

The prefixes 'oligo' and 'poly' attached before an ingredient name are distinguished based on how many amino acids are linked together. Oligopeptide is a naming convention used to refer to peptides with a relatively short chain structure, while polypeptide refers to peptides with a longer chain structure.

Different chain lengths can result in different ways of acting on the skin or different formulation designs with other ingredients. That's why cosmetics' full ingredient lists often show several types of peptides together, which can be understood as the result of attempting elasticity care design from multiple angles by combining peptides with different structures.

How to view peptides by skin condition and age group

During periods when skin elasticity is relatively stable, such as in one's twenties to early thirties, peptide ingredients are often introduced lightly as a preventive care measure. During this period, rather than seeking out highly concentrated, multi-peptide products, it is often sufficient to use products that naturally include them as part of a basic routine focused on moisturizing and condition care.

From the mid-thirties onward, when reduced skin elasticity or fine lines begin to become a concern, many people take an interest in products that combine peptides with wrinkle-improvement functional ingredients officially notified by the Korea Ministry of Food and Drug Safety, such as adenosine. Even in this case, however, it is more realistic to approach it as a care concept premised on consistent use rather than expecting immediate change.

During periods of severe dryness or when the skin barrier has become sensitive, it may be more appropriate to prioritize products formulated with barrier and moisturizing ingredients such as ceramides and panthenol rather than peptides alone. This is because, when the barrier is in an unstable state, stabilizing the skin's condition first takes priority regardless of which active ingredient is used.

How to place peptide ingredients in a routine

Step one, after cleansing, use a toner to smooth the skin's texture. Step two, absorb an ampoule or serum containing peptides into the skin. At this stage, it is good to gently pat it in for absorption. Step three, finish with a cream containing moisturizing and barrier ingredients such as ceramide or panthenol to seal in the active ingredients and moisture so they don't evaporate.

For peptides, the harmony with the ingredients formulated together matters more than the order itself. Using peptides on a well-established moisturizing base tends to be more stably accepted by the skin than using them when the barrier is unstable.

When introducing a new peptide product for the first time, it is recommended to first test it on a localized area rather than the entire face to check the skin's reaction. If redness or irritation is felt after use, it is safer to stop use and consult a dermatologist or other specialist.

What to remember when reading the ingredient list

In summary, the number after a peptide's name is not a ranking of effectiveness but simply a distinction based on registration order. What matters is not which numbered peptide it is, but the perspective of looking at what purpose that peptide was designed for alongside other ingredients, and whether the combination suits your skin condition and the season.

에르쯔틴 리제너레이티브 실트 크림 also contains three peptides of different structures—sh-Oligopeptide-1, rh-Oligopeptide-2, and rh-Polypeptide-1—formulated together with barrier lipid ingredients such as adenosine and ceramide. Rather than focusing on the number of each ingredient, we recommend looking at whether this kind of combination was designed overall with elasticity and moisture care in mind.

The final step, which cream should you finish with

Peptides are not typically used alone; how they are formulated together with other ingredients is what really matters. 에르쯔틴 리제너레이티브 실트 크림 is a product designed with elasticity and moisture care in mind, combining three types of peptides together with barrier lipid ingredients such as adenosine and ceramide, and those interested may find it worthwhile to check the full ingredient list.

Reviewed by 아비쥬의원 의료진. (August 31, 2026)